Miejsca które odwiedzimy: Hoi An

Hội An to niewielkie miasto w środkowym Wietnamie, w prowincji Quảng Nam, dawny portugalski port morski (coż po moich butach to już drugi raz kiedy Portugalia przeplata się w przygotowaniach)  i faktoria handlowa Faifo, położony ok. 30 km na południe od Đà Nẵng. W 1999 r. miasto zostało wpisane do rejestru zabytków światowego dziedzictwa UNESCO.

Hoi An

Port został założony prawdopodobnie pod koniec I tysiąclecia p.n.e. przez żeglarzy austronezyjskich zasiedlających wówczas wschodnie wybrzeża Indochin i z czasem stał się największym portem kontrolujących tę część morskiego szlaku jedwabnego*. Port jest położony w ujściu rzeki Thu Bồn i był ściśle związany ze Świętymi Ziemiami Amarawati – ośrodkami państwowości Czamów, położonymi w górze rzeki. Po zajęciu Amarawati przez Wietnamczyków port odgrywał nadal główną rolę w życiu gospodarczym kraju, aż do czasów kolonialnych, kiedy ustąpił pierwszeństwa Đà Nẵng.

Hoi An

W XVI w. Hội An (Hội An Phố – „miasto bezpiecznego lądowania”) stało się jednym z najważniejszych portów na morzu Południowochińskim. Osiedlali się tu przedstawiciele kupców chińskich, japońskich, a później również europejskich. Pozostał po nich unikatowy układ miasta z tamtych czasów oraz domy i świątynie. Do najcenniejszych zabytków należy tzw. Most Japoński, zbudowany przez przybyszy z Japonii, jedyny na świecie kryty most ze świątynią buddyjską.

lampiony w Hoi An

W latach 90 XX w. władze miasta postanowiły pozbyć się starych, zagrzybionych budynków w centrum i w ich miejsce wybudować bloki mieszkalne. Projektowi sprzeciwił się Kazimierz Kwiatkowski kierujący pracami konserwatorskimi w pobliskim Mỹ Sơn. Za namową Kwiatkowskiego centrum odrestaurowano i przystosowano do ruchu turystycznego. Obecnie Hội An jest jednym z najczęściej odwiedzanych miejsc w Indochinach. Według przewodnika Lonely Planet jest to jednocześnie jedno z najbardziej urokliwych i przyjaznych turystom miejsc w regionie.

*jedwabny szlak

To dawna droga handlowa łącząca Chiny z Europą i Bliskim Wschodem. Szlak miał długość ok. 12 tys. km i był wykorzystywany od III wieku p.n.e. do XVII wieku n.e. na skutek odkrycia drogi morskiej do Chin (ok 1650 r.). Znaczenie szlaku zmalało w VI wieku n.e., kiedy to częściowo utracił znaczenie ze względu na napływ ludów tureckich do Azji Środkowej.

szlak jedwabny

Nazwa Seidenstrasse (niem. "droga jedwabna") została po raz pierwszy użyta przez niemieckiego podróżnika i geografa, barona Ferdinanda von Richthofena w 1877 roku. Jedwab nie był jednak jedynym (ani nawet głównym) towarem transportowanym tym szlakiem. Jedwabny szlak prowadził z Xi'an, dawnej stolicy Chin, przez Lanzhou do oazy Dunhuang, gdzie rozdzielał się na szlak główny (północny) i południowy. Droga północna prowadziła wzdłuż krańca Tienszanu, wzdłuż północnego skraju pustyni Takla Makan, przez oazy Hami, Turfan, Korla, Kucza i Aksu do Kaszgaru.

Lokalne przysmaki kulinarne:

Jest ich kilka. Po pierwsze smażone pierożki won ton podawane z warzywkami, „white rose” - krewetki zawijane w papier ryżowy, cao lau – lokalny makaron podawany z mieszanką listków (sałata, mięta, bazylia), kiełkami, plasterkami ugotowanej wieprzowiny i posypany smażonymi ryżowymi chrupkami, to wszystko polane sosem.

cao lau

pierożki won ton

Można spróbować też dosyć niezwykłego specjału – słodkiej zupy z czarnego sezamu. Nie wygląda ona jakoś specjalnie apetycznie, ale też nie jest niesmaczna. Po prostu jest to słodkawa papka o smaku sezamu na ciepło. Bardzo dobrze smakują bułki z mąki ryżowej nadziewane i gotowane na parze. Są miękkie, nadzienie jest lekko pikantne (mięso, warzywa i gotowane na twardo jajko) i sprzedawane są prosto z „parownika” - coś jak sparzelaki babci. Jest jeszcze tradycyjnie opcja „fish and chips” dostępna chyba na całym świecie.


Transport (po angielsku):

By plane

The nearest airport is in Da Nang which has domestic connections to Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and Hue with Vietnam Airlines and VietJet Air and some international flights to Bangkok, Singapore Siem Reap, Cambodia (for Angkor Wat) and charter flights to China.

A taxi from Danang airport to Hoi An costs about 22 USD  using a taxi with a meter. This is one occasion where haggling to set a fixed price is cheaper than going by the meter, but good luck with this - despite clear signs everywhere listing fixed price fares to destinations including Hoi An (should be 400,000 dong) most drivers seem unwilling to discuss a fixed price. Meters will typically run to around 450,000 dong. The Hoi An airport transfer is highly recommended, the cost is fair with taxi ( about 20 USD) but better car and prof service. Air-conditioned Minibus-Taxis cost 5 USD per person (there are no minibuses in airport, you should go first to the city). The ride takes about 45 min.

A word of caution about flying Jetstar: they are frequently up to 8 hours late, many times arriving at Danang from Saigon at 02:00.

Go Travel Vietnam (GTV), 61 Phan Chau Trinh St. on the corner of Le Loi Street, (English speaking consultant: +84 915 454 949) offers transfers from Hoi An to Danang Airport and Train Station at 5 set times per day for 80,000 dong. This is by far the cheapest way to get from Hoi An to Danang airport or train station in October 2012, you must go into GTV to pre book at least one day in advance. They can also organize private car transfers FROM your hotel or from the Airport or train station as well for 290,000 dong. They were also able to arrange motorbike transfer to the airport for 150,000 dong for a midnight flight. 

By train

There is no railway station in Hoi An. The nearest is in Da Nang, which receives several trains a day from Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Hue, Nha Trang etc. Most travel agents and hotels can book a train ticket for you.

Da Nang Railway Station: 202 Hai Phong, Tan Chinh Ward, Thanh Khe District, TP Da Nang, Phone: + 84 511 375-0666.

See note above regarding transfers between Hoi An and Danang train station for 80,000 dong with Go Travel Vietnam. If you travel with family or big group, you should arrange private car [1].

By bus

There are two different bus stations in Hoi An now (older guide books just show the one on D Hung Vuong)and the public buses to Da Nang leave from the station about 2 km north west of the centre on Le Hong Phong.

A xe om from Hoi An bus station to the old town should be around 10-15,000 dong.

There is a public bus (#1) from Da Nang bus station to Hoi An bus station that costs 18,000 dong and takes c. 45 min. There seems to be no fare written on the side of the bus, but the Ohh La La Socola cafe (14 Thai Phien Da Nang) provides anti-scam maps dated 25 Feb 2013. On the bus they try to charge foreigners 50,000 dong, close to the price of private vans from a hotel in Hoi An to the airport in Da Nang, close to the cost of a bus from Da Nang to Nha Trang (3.5/4h versus a 45 min trip). Locals support the scam by pretending they are also paying 50.000 dong, insist on the fare and they will lower it to 30,000, insist and pay the official one. Expect no change if you have a 20,000 dong note. Beware of bus drivers putting your luggage at the front and sparing you the nicest front seat, likely they want you to pay 50,000 dong and threaten to kick you off. As soon as they see other foreigners to pick up they kick you off in their favour. Buses are frequent - every 20 or 30 min pick time, else every hour - so you can simply sit down, have a coffee, enjoy air-con while talking to nicer locals and then jump on the next bus. Same goes for Hoi An - Da Nang. The bus passes through downtown Da Nang and near the train station as well. If you come from Da Nang airport, the closest bus stop of the same route to Hoi An is at the roundabout where the streets Nguyễn Tri Phương and Điện Biên Phủ meet (a nice 10-15 min walk, since you can walk along the lake). This bus stop is clearly marked with a road sign.

There are no shortage of travel companies and private buses travelling to and from from Hoi An to destinations such as Hue, Hanoi, Saigon, Dalat and Nha Trang.

Open-tour buses like Sinh cafe, Hanh Cafe, An Phu run daily up and down the coast from Da Nang, Hue (3.5-4 hr, 60,000-100,000 dong as of Mar 2012) and Nha Trang (9-10 hours overnight, US$10-15 as of April 2013).

Get Around:

By bike

You can easily get around on a bicycle to most of Hoi An's attractions, go to the beach or reach some of the more remote hotels. It is easy and cheap to hire a bicycle (c. 20,000 dong per day in Jan 2013). For mountain bikes, head to Anh Cuoc shop, at 635 Hai Ba Trung.

Traffic in the area of Hoi An is minimal, so if you've been avoiding getting on a bike in the big cities, small towns and the surrounding countryside like Hoi An are ideal to get used to the road rules.

See:

• Japanese Covered Bridge
• Quan Cong Temple
• Museum of Folk Culture
• Museum of Trade Ceramics
• Hoi An Museum of History and Culture
• Museum of Say Huynh Culture
• Phung Hung House
• Quan Thang House
• Tan Ky House
• Cantonese Assembly Hall
• Chinese All-Community Meeting Hall
• Hoi An Handicraft Workshop
• Traditional Theatre
• Swan Boats

Do

• Hoi An Food Tour
• Cooking lessons

Buy

• Custom made Suits
• Cloned clothes
• Custom made shoes

Sleep

Phuoc An Hotel, 31/1 Tran Cao Van St, [36]. checkout: 12:00. A clean, friendly and modern atmosphere make the Phuoc An hotel one of Hoi An's more notable. An indoors restaurant on the first floor overlooks the hotel pool. The hotel is a stones throw from the markets, tailors and old quarter. Bicycles are offered to patrons free, however motorbikes can be rented at a cost of US$4 per day from across the road. Good service and complementary all you can eat breakfast each day before 11. (Hotel not connected with the Phuoc An River Hotel on Cua Dai road.) 18-30$US per night.

Phuoc An Hotel

Locphat-Hoi An Homestay, Group 6, Son Pho Block, Cam Chau Ward, ☎ +84 93 512 0820) (LOCPHATHOMESTAY@gmail.com), [34]. Nice and quiet, very close to old town . Nicely decorated wide rooms. Free internet and wifi $10-16, excluding breakfast. 

Locphat-Hoi An Homestay

Mrs. Flower's Homestay, 39 Thai Phien St., ☎ +84 98 315 0329 (hoaflower80@hotmail.com). (Near Sinh Tourist Open Bus office, about 1 minute walk.) A newly opened homestay with very clean, spacious and comfortable three rooms (some with balconies) very close to the Old Town. The owners are a lovely couple who make you feel part of their family (Mrs. Flower speaks good English). Free use of internet and Wi-Fi. Free use of laundry machine (January 2013), TV and fridge in the shared area, bicycle and motorbike rental. Mrs Flowers will also help if you wish to have any tailored clothes made, taking you to the market and helping you to pick out the best materials. She will measure you herself and send it off to a good quality tailor for a cheaper price than offered by the high street tailors (for example a cashmere/silk suit the high street tailors quoted as $150, Mrs Flowers instead had made for $80 without loss of quality). Makes for a much more personal experience than staying in a hotel. Also available for long-term stay US$200/month (from 1 month to 1 year). US$8-12.

Mrs. Flower's Homestay

Orchid Garden Homestay, 382 cua dai str, ☎ +845103863720, [47]. checkin: 2pm; checkout: 12pm. The name 'Orchid Garden' originates from the owner's long held passion for orchids, with more than 30 varieties of orchid in the garden. The homestay has four secluded bungalows built in traditional Vietnamese architecture, surrounded by a variety of tropical trees, and equipped with modern convenient facilities. Each bungalow is named after a kind of orchid that you can find around the garden. Orchid Garden also has a traditional sanctuary for worshiping ancestors and for the family activities.  edit
 

Orchid Garden Homestay

Orchid Garden Homestay

Orchid Garden Homestay

Phuoc An River Hotel, 242 Cua Dai road, [48]. checkin: 13:00; checkout: 11:00. Roof garden restaurant on the sixth floor provides the best views in Hoi An. Clean rooms, good food, friendly staff, and beach road riverside location make the Phuoc An River Hotel unique in Hoi An. Spa, Gym, Pool, Poolside Bar, Coffee Garden. The hotel is quietly located 15-20 minutes stroll to/from the beach, and within easy walking distance of the ancient town. Bicycles are free for guests. Good service. Great breakfast - own kitchen garden and free ranging hens, mean fresh veggies and eggs daily! Well reviewed on Tripadvisor/Agoda. (NB. This hotel is not connected with the Phuoc An Hotel on Tran Cao Van, or Phuoc An clothes shop, which are owned independently.) 30/60$US per night - Rooms/Suites 

Phuoc An River Hotel

Phuoc An River Hotel

Get out

• My Son - UNESCO World Heritage Site, ruins of the ancient Cham empire, in the jungle at the start of the Central Highlands a little over an hour from Hoi An
• Đồng Dương - Ruined Cham tower, the sole major remnant of a large Buddhist Cham period (9th century, 875-915 under Indravarman II) temple-complex that was originally 155 m x 32 6m. Other minor remnants are also visible. 
• My Khanh - Rare seaside ruin of a Cham tower dating from the 8th century. 
• Cham Islands - UNESCO Biosphere Reserve Cu Lao Cham - Hoi An 9 nautical miles offshore. 
• Ba Na Hills - Located in the Truong Son mountain range 25 km to the SW of Da Nang at an altitude of 1,487 m. 
• The Marble Mountains, 9 km short of Da Nang, are well worth a morning or afternoon trip from Hoi An. 
• Lang Co - fishing village that includes mountains, a river, a lagoon, an island and a 32 km beach located between Da Nang and Hue. 
• Hue - the former imperial capital, a few hours away by car or train. 
• Da Lat - originally the playground of the French, who built villas in the clear mountain air to escape the heat and humidity of the coast.

Linki:

• http://wikitravel.org/en/Hoi_An 
• http://hoianfoodtour.com/ 
• http://nawlasneoczy.wordpress.com/2011/07/01/hoi-an-miasteczko-z-innej-epoki%E2%80%A6/
•  http://mojamalakuchnia.blogspot.co.uk/2011/02/eksperymenty-w-hoi.html